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I found the easiest way was to pull on the exposed ends of the brass ferules using pliers whilst also gently tugging on the wires.If you just pull on the wires, you might find that the cable breaks leaving the ferule stuck inside.This guide to testing a Lucas dynamo is based upon my experiences with my 1951 Matchless G3LS, although the same principles should apply to other Matchless and AJS bikes (and indeed to other bikes and cars of the same era which also use the Lucas dynamo charging system).The aim is to guide you through a series of tests that can be performed with the dynamo still installed on the bike to check that it is working correctly and giving an appropriate voltage output, or to help to pinpoint potential problems if not.
If the positive terminal of the battery is connected to the frame of the bike then it’s wired positive earth.If the negative terminal is connected to the bike frame, then it’s negative earth. You now need to connect the two test leads of your multimeter between the Lucas dynamo and the bike frame to measure the voltage difference between the dynamo and earth.Now here’s the bit you need to get right: if you’re bike is wired positive earth, then connect the positive (red) test lead of the multimeter to a suitable earth point on the bike.There should be a screw between the two wires on the back of the dynamo which holds in place a small plastic plate which secures the two wires – you’ll need to remove this (it is missing from my dynamo in the photos) and also pull back the rubber cover if fitted. They should just be bent over small brass ferules and so might be tight if they’ve not been removed for a while.
Remove them carefully as you’ll need to refit them later and you don’t want them all bent.The dynamo fitted to my bike is a Lucas model “E3NL.0” although I haven’t found many references to this model number elsewhere.